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A pair of fishing pliers is the one tool almost every angler ends up wishing they had bought sooner. Good pliers pull out deep hooks without hurting you or the fish, cut line cleanly, open split rings to swap hooks on lures, and crimp or bend small parts on the water. Using kitchen pliers or your fingers works until a fish swallows a hook or a treble hook ends up in your thumb.

If you only remember one thing: get a long-nose pair with a built-in line cutter and a lanyard, in aluminum if you fish saltwater or want light weight, or in stainless steel if you want a cheaper, tougher freshwater pair. Add a lip gripper or braid scissors later if you need them. Compare current options with the search links below and read recent reviews for rust, cutter sharpness, and how the jaws line up.

Who this guide is for

Good fit if you’re putting together a first tackle bag, fishing with kids who keep getting hooks stuck, or switching to braided line that regular clippers won’t cut well.

If you only fish for small panfish with tiny hooks, a basic hook remover tool and nail clippers may be enough at first. Pliers start paying off once you catch bass, catfish, pike, or anything with teeth or a big mouth.

What fishing pliers actually do

  • Hook removal: long, narrow jaws reach into a fish’s mouth so your fingers stay clear of teeth, gills, and hook points.
  • Line cutting: most fishing pliers have side cutters near the hinge. Better pairs use hard replaceable cutter inserts that slice braid and fluorocarbon cleanly instead of crushing them.
  • Split ring opening: a small bent tooth on the tip of many pliers pries open split rings so you can change hooks on crankbaits and spoons without breaking a nail.
  • Crimping and bending: some pliers have a crimp slot for leader sleeves, and the jaws can pinch down barbs to make hooks easier to remove.
  • Grip: textured jaws hold small swivels and knots while you tighten them.

Aluminum vs stainless steel vs coated steel: the quick answer

  • Aluminum pliers: light and resist rust well, which is why they’re popular for saltwater and kayak fishing. Look for replaceable steel or tungsten carbide cutter inserts, because aluminum alone is too soft to cut line for long. Usually mid priced.
  • Stainless steel pliers: heavier and very strong, often cheaper, and fine for most freshwater fishing. Even stainless can spot-rust if put away wet, so rinse and dry them.
  • Coated or painted carbon steel pliers: the cheapest option. Fine to start, but once the coating chips they can rust fast, especially near salt water.
  • Titanium-coated or titanium pliers: tough and corrosion resistant but pricier. Nice to have, not necessary for a beginner.

Features worth paying for

  • A cutter that handles braid. If you use braided line, check that the listing specifically says it cuts braid, and look for replaceable cutter inserts.
  • Length that fits your fish. About 6.5 to 7.5 inch pliers cover most bass, trout, and walleye. Longer 8 to 9 inch pliers keep your hand farther from pike, catfish, and saltwater species with teeth.
  • Jaws that line up. Reviews often mention cheap pliers whose tips don’t meet, which makes grabbing small hooks hard.
  • A spring that opens the jaws on its own, so you can work one-handed while holding a fish.
  • A coiled lanyard and a sheath or holster. Pliers dropped over the side of a boat or kayak are gone for good.
  • Comfortable, non-slip handles that you can grip with wet or cold hands.

How to unhook a fish safely with pliers

  1. Wet your hands before touching a fish you plan to release, and keep it in or close to the water when you can.
  2. Hold the fish gently but firmly. For bass, a lip grip with your thumb works. For fish with teeth, use a lip gripper or a landing net instead of your fingers.
  3. Grab the hook by the bend or shank with the tips of the pliers, not the line.
  4. Push the hook back the opposite way it went in, then turn it out. Don’t yank straight back on a barbed hook.
  5. If the hook is swallowed deep, cut the line as close to the hook as you can and release the fish. Many state fish and wildlife agencies note that this often gives the fish a better chance than digging the hook out.
  6. Keep the fish out of the water as briefly as possible, then release it facing into the current or let it swim off on its own.

Lip grippers, fishing scissors, and tool kits

  • Lip gripper: a clamp that holds a fish by the lower jaw so you can unhook it without touching teeth or fins. Very handy for pike, catfish, and saltwater fish. Some include a small scale. Support heavier fish under the belly instead of hanging them only by the jaw.
  • Braid scissors: small, very sharp scissors made for braided line. Many anglers keep them on a lanyard and save the plier cutters for mono and fluorocarbon.
  • Hook remover or disgorger: a cheap plastic or metal tool that slides down the line to pop out small hooks. Great for kids and panfish.
  • Pliers and gripper kits: often the best value if you need both. Compare build quality instead of the number of pieces in the box.

Quick buyer paths

Pick by where you fish and what line you use, not by the flashiest color.

  • Best all-around first pair: search fishing pliers hook remover, compare length, cutter type, and whether a sheath and lanyard are included.
  • Saltwater or braid users: search saltwater fishing pliers braid cutter, look for aluminum bodies with replaceable cutter inserts and read reviews about rust.
  • Best value combo: search fishing tool kit pliers gripper, check that the gripper locks and the pliers jaws line up.
  • Reaching deep hooks: search needle nose fishing pliers, compare overall length and how thin the tips are.
  • Cleaner braid cuts: search fishing scissors braid cutter, and keep them on a retractor so they’re always handy.

Common beginner mistakes

  • Using pliers without a lanyard on a boat or kayak, then watching them sink.
  • Expecting cheap side cutters to slice braid. They often fray it instead, so use braid scissors or pliers rated for braid.
  • Putting pliers away wet, especially after saltwater, then finding rusted jaws and a stuck hinge.
  • Grabbing the line instead of the hook, which can drive the hook deeper.
  • Lifting heavy fish only by a lip gripper without supporting their body.
  • Buying the biggest 20-piece kit when one good pair of pliers covers most needs.

Gear checklist

Amazon links are searches, not specific product picks. Compare options and check reviews before buying.

Safety tips

  • Treat every hook point as sharp. Hold the hook with pliers, not your fingers, when removing it from a fish or a snag.
  • If a hook goes into your skin past the barb, get medical help instead of forcing it out, especially near the eye or face.
  • Watch out for teeth and gill rakers on pike, catfish, and saltwater fish. Use long pliers and a lip gripper.
  • Keep cutters closed and in a sheath when not in use, and keep sharp scissors away from young kids.
  • Rinse pliers in fresh water after saltwater trips, dry them, and add a drop of oil to the hinge.

More in our fishing safety guide.

Frequently asked questions

Are aluminum or stainless steel fishing pliers better?
Aluminum pliers are lighter and resist rust better, which makes them a favorite for saltwater. Stainless steel pliers are heavier, very strong, and often cheaper, which is fine for most freshwater fishing. Either way, rinse and dry them after use.
Do I need special pliers to cut braided line?
Braid is tough and slippery, so dull cutters crush or fray it. Look for pliers with hard replaceable cutter inserts that are advertised for braid, or carry a small pair of braid scissors.
What length of fishing pliers should I get?
About 6.5 to 7.5 inches works for most bass, trout, panfish, and walleye. Go longer, around 8 to 9 inches, for pike, catfish, or saltwater fish with teeth.
Can I just use regular pliers from my toolbox?
They work in a pinch, but they’re usually too short and thick to reach deep hooks, they rust quickly around water, and they don’t cut fishing line well. Fishing pliers are made for those jobs.
Is a lip gripper worth it for beginners?
It’s worth it if you catch fish with teeth or spiny fins, or if you want to keep your hands clear while unhooking. For small panfish and trout, wet hands and a good pair of pliers are usually enough.

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